Product Description
Thermal Grizzly
- Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut is a liquid metal thermal compound based on a eutectic alloy. Our special mixture of metals like tin, gallium and indium, Conductonaut excels with a very high thermal conductivity.
- Our Conductonaut liquid metal thermal compound is designed for applications that require very high efficiency.
- Notes: Conductonaut thermal grease must not be used with aluminum heatsinks! Conductonaut is a liquid metal compound and can leave visual residues. For best long term performance results we recommend to use coolers with nickel plated surface.
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Thermal Paste
About Conductonaut
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut is a liquid metal thermal compound based on a eutectic alloy. Our special mixture of metals like tin, gallium and indium, Conductonaut excels with a very high thermal conductivity. We recommend to apply Conductonaut on nickel plated surfaces since this will provide the best long term stability in performance.
Conductonaut is a liquid metal thermal paste developed for high efficiency applications. Conductonaut is recommended as the best product for experienced users who are looking for a solution with the best heat dissipation in the temperature range from over 8 ° C, but also through the risk of electric conduction.
Compatible
- Must not be used with aluminum heatsinks!
- PS3, PS4, PS5
- Xbox 360, One Series S and Series X
- Great for dissipating heat from Macbooks.
- Computer components such as CPU, GPU, LEDs, heat dissipation fins, and fans.
- It can work with almost any system either with air or with liquid nitrogen (down to -50 °C)
- The supplied cap makes it easy to apply the paste precisely.
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Set
- Description: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut is a high performance liquid metal themal compound.
- Properties: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquid metal thermal compound is based on a eutectic alloy. A special combination of metals like tin, gallium and indium results in very high thermal conductivity and excellent long-term stability.
- Application: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut is recommended for applications that require extremely high thermal conductivity at room temperature – e.g. between a silicon chip PC microprocessor and heat sink. The liquid metal compound compensates even the slightest irregularities, which can not be achieved with convenstional thermal greases.
- Storage: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut should be stored boxed and under dry conditions at room temperature.
Mergatroid –
Purchased but not usingI was using a Haswell i7 4770K, and I delidded it and used liquid ultra between the CPU and the heat spreader. This worked excellent for about 5 years until I sold the main board, CPU and RAM. (I hope it keeps working for the guy who bought them).When I replaced my system, I decided to use that same metal TIM on my new 10700K and AIO cooler. I just purchased a new cooler because I was interested in adding more RGB in that area inside my system. While I was waiting for it, I started watching some Youtube videos where people were removing their coolers and inspecting the metal TIM they used. In some cases, after two years the copper cooling plates were slightly pitted and stained, and the TIM had turned hard, requiring it to be sanded off. I was a little shocked.Apparently it’s not good to use this on copper. It’s even worse to use it on aluminum. Do not use it on aluminum at all.Nickel isn’t so bad, and I cleaned my CPU and could still see the writing on the heat spreader, but it was definitely stained. The copper on the waterblock was pitted, but not too badly and that cooler could still be used. The liquid ultra was still liquid and had not turned hard. This was after being on those parts for a year and three months.So I decided not to use metal TIM any more even though I had already ordered this Conductonaut stuff. It, along with what’s left of my liquid ultra, will take a permanent position in a drawer and never see the light of day again. Computer equipment is too expensive to have it ruined by the thermal paste you use.Also, please take what people are saying with a grain of salt. People who replace the TIM on their GPUs and claim a 20-degree drop obviously did not check their temps after replacing the TIM with new regular TIM. If they had of done that, they would have seen a large drop as well. The cooling bottleneck in most thermal interfaces and coolers is not the TIM, unless it is very poor TIM or very old or applied incorrectly. In any of those cases, replacing the TIM with new, properly applied TIM will result in vastly lower temperatures, and metal TIM is not required.After installing my new 360mm cooler and comparing my temps to my old 360mm cooler, they are almost identical even though I am using the TIM that came with the new cooler, and the old cooler was using liquid metal.I won’t waste my money and damage my property using liquid metal TIMs again.
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Didu –
As good as LM gets but you only get 1gramThis dropped tempt compared to mx4 by about 10C – huge difference but make sure you are NOT using it on Aluminium heatsinks – it will bind/dissolve them.Also using them on pure copper will leave a stain but is 100% safe. Nickel plated blocks and heatsinks are best for this.Even a tiny drop spreads across a large surface. 1gm lasted me for 3 ryzen fully covered cpu dies and one rx5 5700.silicon die.
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Andrew H –
CAUTION WHEN APPLYING, EXCELLENT RESULTS/ FIXED PS4 PROWant to start by saying very careful when squeezing the syringe, the material suddenly shoots out at times. Also do not use this on aluminium heatsinks. I had an overheating PS4 Pro and was very loud. So I changed the thermal paste, and now it is whisper quiet even after playing continuous hours God Of War. Love how my console went from a jet engine, to a whisper gentle fan. The heat sink on PS4 Pro is copper thus totally safe, but the original and slim PS4 are all aluminium heatsink thus don’t use this for them because it will “eat” aluminium. Overall I would highly recommend but be careful on application, as this material is conductive.Side Note here’s a quick mini guide to apply the liquid metal to your PS4 Pro.Before Application:1) I used 7 thin coats of clear nail polish around the shiny chip, but not on the shiny chip. Allow each coat to dry.2) Next I used Kapton Tape (used in soldering) on top the nail polish because I like redundancy on security. You can use electrical tape but electrical tape tends to shrink in high temperatures.Application of Liquid Metal:3) For application I unscrewed the syringe’s head, lightly squeezed the syringe, then dab a q-tip onto the syringe to grab very little material, and finally dab the q-tip onto the shiny chip. Repeat until you have a very thin layer on the chip. Repeat the process for the copper part of the heatsinkHope this helps someone out!
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Kevin Han –
Wrong item
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Rob –
Not for beginners, but excellent value.Obviously using this stuff is TERRIFYING, as you’re acutely aware that one slip up means a dead motherboard, CPU or GPU. It can be a little hard to find out what materials you’re working with, though that’s hardly Thermal Grizzly’s fault.I could’ve used a little more on the instruction side of things, because the window between “not enough” and “way too much” is hilariously easy to miss. Some sort of cleaning compound could also be appreciated. Since I’ve applied it, my CPU (An old AMD FX-4170) has been moved from 4.8GHz to 5.0GHz stable, which is great. My two R9 280X GPUs have both been pushed to 1175MHz on the core, and 1250MHz memory clock, both on the stock cooler. So the actual performance of the product once you’re past the terrifying application stage is second-to-none.It’s also worth mentioning that you get a LOT of the stuff. I hit two GPUs and a CPU, and I still have a significant amount of the stuff left. So there’s a genuine value statement to be made, especially if you’re using it to prod along old hardware like myself.
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Cailess Arourae –
WowKnew that this stuff is great but holy cow. Used it to replace the aging thermal compound in my girlfriends zenbook pro and now the processor is able to maintain boost clocks during extended stress testing. Can’t wait to see how this stuff affects the thermals on my GPU and CPU for my desktop.
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Morgan –
#1 in cooling, #1 in risk.Against everyone’s recommendation, I used this on my laptop with copper heatsinks. Under full synthetic stress, 77c on the CPU, 69c on the GPU (4720HQ, 980m) compared to +95c CPU, 85c GPU with Noctua’s thermal paste.This is not for everyone. There is very real risk in using liquid metal on a laptop (or any electronic component). DO NOT use on aluminium. Copper or nickel-plated copper ONLY.There is no better thermal interface material on the planet right now. This is it. If you need a laptop to cool the f&%k down, or are attempting some overclocking records, there is nothing better.
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Ryan –
Awesome Thermals!Im seeing a 25c drop in idle temps at 5ghz on an I7 7700k! idles at 30c now and under full load doesn’t go past 68c!! this is with an AIO cooler.I recommend this product 100%, just be careful this is not regular thermal paste and can ruin your motherboard if applied incorrectly.
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Jim –
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Thermal Grease PasteFirst time user of this product. Applied it on both GPU and CPU (1 bottle was just enough for both). Happy to report no issue/problem with application (actually ended up being easier than I thought). Has decreased temps on both by a few degrees and would not hesitate to go through the process in future builds.
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Agent Sanchez –
The absolute bestGreat solution and alternative to thermal paste. The small tip applicator ensures you don’t apply too much and you can quickly suck it back inside the tube if you do. Very pricey and not recommended for beginners but you will get the best temps with this.
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Mykola Grymalyuk –
Honestly, the best buy if you’re having thermal problemsSo I recently bought a used MacBook Pro 15 retina with the gt650m, loved the machine for programming but I had one massive problem: once you max the GPU to fast, it’ll crash. I did research but found nothing so did tests and found that if I let the GPU die warm up slower, it won’t crash. Bought this and fixed every problem I’ve had with the machine, it’s even quieter with a drop of 20c on load. I have one warning if used on a laptop, be careful from getting it on traces, my recommendation is nail polish sealer on the CPU studs if the liquid metal drips on important components. Also, ​it may take a couple hours for the temp drops to become significant, it just needs to settle in
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Z ye –
6 ghz 24/7 gaming with temps around 63°C (before it was 82-83 °C) This liquid metal solution help my cpu-tim problem (bad intel tim = a sad bear.Does what it advertisesKnocked temps from 90+ to 78 °C @ 4.6 ghz on all cores under load in occt stress test with my i7 4790kGaming at around 61°C with my i7 4790kUsing deepcool maestrom 240t liquid coolingSucessful delid and heat-fix (thought cpu was going to be trashed)Can run @ 4.6 ghz 24/7 gaming with temps around 63°C (before it was 82-83 °C)This liquid metal solution help my cpu-tim problem (bad intel tim = a sad bear…)Great producted
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trem –
Amazing!!So my 4770k does not overclock at all, it was reaching 75 degrees C at stock clock while playing anything. So decided to delid and overclock. After applying liquid metal was able to get stable 4.3 ghz at max 68 c not bad at all.Without liquid metal it was reaching 100 C.Follow Gamer Nexus for tips how to apply .I used liquid tape to shield all circuits.
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Wesley T. –
Amazing results!Believe what all the hype is about this stuff actually works! My Dell G3 would thermal throttle (cpu 99c) even with a repaste using arctic silver and the fans would sound like they were trying to take off trying to keep the i7 8750h and gtx 1060 max-q in check. I knew about the risks by going with liquid metal, and it did require far more prep work and meticulous application but it now runs 20-30c cooler on full load, and the fan ramps up far less often at idle. Now I‘m staring at my macbook pro and wondering how cool it could run…
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Damon Brodie –
Amazing!I delidded my first CPU – an Intel 7700k and changed the TIM to Conductonaut. My temps went from 100C at 1.3v down to 60C (I also changed the thermal paste between my cooler and my CPU and lapped the CPU. All in all, the conductonaut was easy to apply, just take it slow and use the provided Q-Tips to move the material around and smooth it out. The tiniest dot was enough to cover the whole die.
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Sean –
Fantastic Performance, pretty easy to apply if you take your timePerformed as well as I expected it would. I used it under a de-lidded 7700k and the process was pretty straight forward. It’s honestly nothing to be afraid of; just be a little more cautious than you would be with a more forgiving thermal grease and take your time and you will be just fine.Best piece of advice I got was to push a small bead of it on to a paper towel or something before actually applying it to the CPU. It can dry a little in the tube there is the potential that it might resist a bit at first and the shoot out in an unfortunate little stream of board killing delight. Once you’ve cleared the way though it flows nice and easy. Less is more.Performance is every bit as good as I was promised, so I’m very happy overall 🙂
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Nick –
Best stuff you can getBest thermal paste you can get. I have an i9 9900k with 5.0Ghz OC all 8 cores with a Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black cooler, I have not seen my temps go above 75.Best way to spread is to put the qtip against the syringe and push a bit on the qtip and spread it on. It’s easy so you don’t apply to much and saves from making a mess over the device’s if you pull a Linus, haha.
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V G –
Application was very easy, don’t be afraid to apply some pressure when …Using it currently with my i7-5820k and Noctua NH-D15. Full load temperatures are at least 10 degrees C lower than with thermal paste. Application was very easy, don’t be afraid to apply some pressure when spreading it around. If you have experience soldering electronics, this compound behaves physically very similar to 60/40 solder on copper.
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Sirmyself –
THE THING TO HAVEI just applied it to my laptop (quiet AF now) and my delidded Desktop CPU. This thing is seriously the best thermal interface material to apply to conduct heat. I just dropped 25-30°C on my desktop CPU after a delid and applying this under the AHS (I also used artic silver 5 between the AHS and the heatsink).Managed an overclock of 5.25ghz on a i7-8700k cooled with a coolermaster Hyper 212 evo (temps are back to about 84-88°C after that overclock)
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Simon –
Expensive, but worth every centChances are you already know if you need liquid metal before buying this. I used this to repaste the CPU (i7-9750H) on a laptop which I had already repasted with Noctua NT-H1 and it still lowered temperatures by over 25C (100C -> low 70s). Liquid metal will probably make the biggest difference in laptops, since laptops have limited cooling capacity (on desktop you can mostly brute-force past poor thermal conductivity with a bigger/more powerful cooler). Liquid metal is electrically conductive, so it’s a good idea to apply clear nail polish to surrounding components to avoid causing a short circuit.It is a bit difficult to apply, since the liquid metal doesn’t really “stick” to the die, so you’ll need to be patient and keep rubbing it in with a cotton swab. When you’re done the die should look like it’s painted in silver, with no pooling or blobs of liquid. Although each tube only contains 1 gram, which doesn’t seem like much, you use so little each time that a single tube will be enough for many applications. Repasting with liquid metal is semi-permanent, if you do it right you won’t need to repaste for many years. It’s been over a year since I repasted my laptop and I haven’t noticed any increases in temperatures.
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Jean-Michel Desrosiers –
The syringe doesn’t slite easilyI work in a hospital and this syringe is not easy to push, it’s stiff and not precise so even with the little tip you could accidentally poir too much if ur not very careful. I recommend you start by just rotating the handle left and right to unstuck it first before pushing to apply the lm. You can rotate it left and right as you push to prevent it from sticking too.
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Bruce –
… a micro tip for the syringe which makes it easy to add a pinhead-sized bead to the processorLatest packaging includes a micro tip for the syringe which makes it easy to add a pinhead-sized bead to the processor.The trick with Conductonaut is to use very little. If you can see it pooling, you’ve used too much. Essentially you just prime both the CPU and IHS surface with this stuff. There’s not much gap to fill and you definitely don’t want this stuff oozing out around the edges.Supposedly Intel is using better TIM with the Coffee Lake processors, but I dropped more than 15 degrees Celcius from my i7-8700K on a modest 4.8 overclock. I’m using Conductonaut under the IHS and Kryonaut on top. I’m getting sub 60 CPU temps with my air-cooled system. Even better, I was able to minimize fan speeds under low to moderate CPU use so my system is essentially silent most of the time.Recommend this highly over any other TIM product out there.
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verified customer –
Very tiny amount, very slow delivery (to NA)Well packaged, clear instructions, very good tools included. Very tiny tube however. The thermal interface is very liquid (almost like water) and if the bottom of the CPU heatsink is not polished or very slightly misaligned with the CPU the interface won’t perform better than the “normal” interfaces that allow for larger amount to be added to the top of the CPU and compensate for imperfections of the surfaces and assembly. The surface of my heatsink (a standard stock heatsink of a HP desktop ) wasn’t too polished and probably was sitting not too flat either and the CPU temperatures went higher than with the old interface. Tried to add more grease on the top of the CPU but the options are limited because the interface is electrically conductive and if it reaches the motherboard it will probably fry it. Disassembled the heatsink and polished it but when tried to assemble it turned out that there was not enough grease left in the tube to cover completely the CPU surface. So in my case the exercise was a failure. However, the thermal conductivity of the grease is huge and if the surfaces are perfect (like of the Noctua heatsinks) it will perform much better than the stock interfaces. In short, use this with high quality heatsinks only.
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James –
My GTX 1080 doesn’t throttle anymore. Expensive but worth the money if you live in a hot/humid environment.CAUTION:This is the first time I have used liquid metal thermal grease. Using this “liquid metal” is scary, because it behaves as if it were both liquid and solid. It can fly 1m across the room with just a gentle flick of the finger. This stuff comes with 2 black Q-Tips and they work great…but so do regular Q-Tips so just use what you have. DO NOT USE DRY PAPER TOWEL to pick it up – it can disperse into smaller balls of the ‘liquid metal’ around the surface its touching, making a larger mess or stain. Always have paper towel damp or soaked with 70% Isopropyl alcohol and cut it into small sizes. You will understand why the advice is so specific because this stuff can permenantly stain your furniture if your unaware of its physical properties as you apply it. Even opening the tube the first time it can squirt out so pay attention to where you point the end or you will regret every time you press down too hard on the plunger.For the people who would care about how to properly handle this stuff I cannot stress enough how much this liquid metal stuff can brick your hardware if the material somehow finds its way onto 2x resistors (1x resistor you’re probably OK), which surround a CPU/GPU die, you can short the two resistors and you might have problems getting into the OS after that.REVIEW:I have a Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Edition with a RAIJINTEK Morpheus II and 2x Noctua NF-P12 120mm fans. When I first took the graphics card apart I noticed that the most of the the stock thermal paste is on the sides of the GPU die, touching the resistors and not the the die itself. The application that was most likely done by a human employee was terrible! I really looked forward to this because even with an aftermarket cooler, my GPU temps would throttle at 82c @ stock clocks and I could not maintain 99% GPU utilization and often going as low as 80%.Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut is friggin amazing if you apply a perfect thin layer on both the component and the VGA cooler plate. I have done 3 attempts to experiment to figure out how much is too much and how little is too little. I finally managed to get the peak performance outta this thing. my temps went from 82c to 67c with overclocking. Think about it like this – apply a small pinhead size drop and move it around a bit, then put more, do some more painting and keep doing this until you have the thinnest layer you can possibly see and there shouldn’t be any “puddle” texture visible, go for a ‘wet floor’ appearance. Regardless of how much or little the tempurature difference is, as long as the card isn’t throttling – your good!A little more information on the temps – Its summer time in Canada right now, so it can be really humid some days. The ambient room temp during these tests was 27c which is too uncomfortable for me. My PC is in my closet, to minimize noise but temps go up as much as +3c. After 3 consecutive attempts, I learned that too much is really bad, but too little can be as well. There truly is a perfect amount per surface area. My current maximum temp is 72c (with OC) with 26.5c ambient temp of the room (small beroom). Taking into consideration that my PC’s environment is not ideal, I cannot believe that this liquid metal stuff can drop temps this much.These results were conducted using 2x Noctua NF-P12 120mm fans @ 100% RPM:Stock Core Clock: 1680MHzStock Core Clock (Thermal Grizzly): 1911MHzOC Core: 2025MHz – it peaked at 2076MHz!Stock Memory Clock: 5006MHzOC Memory Clock: 5562MHzI’m using my 8700K stock (no delid + MX-12 thermal paste) with 1x 140mm fan and a 120m stock case fan beside the CPU and 1x 140mm on the other side of the case. I’m using a Fractal Define C with 2x SSDs and 2xHDDs installed. This case is smaller than most mid tower cases and in a way I think it helps with the airflow. Thats everything in my case.FINAL THOUGHTS:This stuff is expensive, but it was worth it for me.If you try this and you don’t get good temps, you’re doing something wrong.Side note: I applied this stuff to my PS4 Pro and it helped alot – the fan is noticably quieter.
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Jeff-rip- –
This stuff is amazing. A word of caution though for new comers …Delidded 8700k OC’d to 5ghz. Pre delid 75 degree’s Celsius. Post Delid 61 degree’s Celsius. This stuff is amazing. A word of caution though for new comers using this stuff, it comes out of the tube fast, be very careful with the pressure you use on the plunger, also a little strange to spread. Plus you don’t need much!!!! I used too much and shorted out a could contacts next too the CPU as it spread out once the IHS was placed back on. I had to take the Computer all apart and redo it. but it works wonderfully once applied correctly!
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Moonie –
This stuff is awesomeUsed it on my 1080Ti and it’s working awesome. My rig’s always been on water (closed loop – 2700x + 1080ti), so I don’t know what it was on air, but on water it idles at 25/26 degrees. Don’t recall full load though (think it’s about 35).If you’re on the fences, don’t be – buy it! If you’re worried about frying your components, just apply clear nail polish (non conductive) or electrical tape (or liquid electrical tape — love this stuff) on the components surrounding the cpu/gpu die. Also, when applying conductonaut, do it conservatively, it takes 1 or 2 small drops at most (watch Gamer Nexus’ conductonaut youtube video on it’s application if you have questions).I’ll definitely buy again when I run out!
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Tyler –
This stuff is INSANE.This stuff is INSANE. I used it on my Alienware 15R3 (GTX 1060, I7 7700HQ variety) and before this stuff, running full loads on my GPU and CPU would result in thermal throttling down to 2.4GHz and temperatures of 97 celcius. After applying this compound, my computer maintains temperatures of around 85 celcius maximum and the CPU overclocks itself to 3.7GHz instead of throttling to 2.4, WHILE maintaining far better temperatures.Seriously, taking into account the thermal throttling, that means it’s helping to disipate an extra roughly 25-30 degrees. Mind boggling crap here.Do note that while you absolutely should ensure not to over-apply the compound due to the very real risk of killing your system, you also should avoid under-pasting the stuff. I was too conservative on my first attempt and my system was reaching 80 celcius IDLE, and if trying to benchmark it would hit 100 celcius the instant I hit ‘Start’. Applying a bit more radically dropped my temps to record lows.The moral of th estory is be careful, but don’t be TOO conservative or you won’t make a good connection.
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PS –
The best heat conductor if you take care in applicationI used Thermal Grizzly’s compounds on my delidded Core i7 3770K and used Conductonaut under the IHS, and then used Kryonaut between the IHS and Corsair H80i v2 cooler. It dropped the max temps by 20 degrees, just as I had read online. I thought reviewers on YouTube and whatnot were exaggerating, however having set it up myself, Thermal Grizzly’s thermal compounds are legit.The 20 degree drop in temperatures allowed for further overclocking of the CPU, as well as reduced fan speeds. So less noise and more performance!I feel that the reduction in noise and heat, and increase in performance justify the price for what are premium thermal compounds.Advice for application:Pressing the plunger very slowly and firmly, dispense a bead of Conductonaut the size of half a grain of rice (3mm) onto the die. Using the included black application swabs, gently rest the tip down upon the bead and sweep across the die horizontally with small brush strokes. Spread the compound evenly such that there are no streaks (thin blank areas) but also no pools of the liquid metal. Just enough to cover the surface with no streaks remaining is perfect.Using the residual liquid metal on the swab, apply it to the inside of the IHS facing the die using a swirling motion. Just enough to prime the surface is sufficient.Use only on nickel-plated, steel, or high-quality copper. Do not use on aluminum heatsinks, as it will amalgamate with the aluminum and rot out the heatsink.Take time and care in your application and you’ll have great results.
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